Honky tonk blues: travels in Nashville

Nashville is the capital of country music, but where have all the cowboys gone? Emma John goes in search of authenticityI had been warned about Nashville. To any country-music lover, it's the ultimate place of pilgrimage: a star-making factory, responsible for Hank Williams and Shania Twain, where Johnny Cash settled down with June, where Dolly Parton is royalty. But friends who had visited spoke of a disappointing reality: soulless, tacky, a shallow theme park of a town.I decided to ignore the...

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