In praise of… Teatro di San Carlo

In his classic book Naples '44, Norman Lewis, then a British soldier in occupied Italy, describes how an orchestra playing a wartime concert at Naples's Teatro di San Carlo returned to their places after the interval to discover that thieves had stolen all their instruments. Such is the daunting reputation of Naples that the uninitiated visitor may suppose that this is still how things are in what is probably, after the Scala in Milan and the Fenice in Venice, the most important opera house in I...

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