Simon Hoggart's week: Last of the summer wine

Imagine a picnic with scalding hot, salty chips, the sun beating down, a view of the white cliffs of Dover in the distance, and a good book to read✒ We were back in France last weekend, as I was speaking at a dinner hosted by Guy Boursot. Guy (British, in spite of his name) is the wine merchant who got so fed up with seeing people in the hypermarkets of Calais hauling cases of disgusting fluids, such as cheap Muscadet whose only use might be for cleaning paint brushes, that he set up a shop in...

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