Nevada's cult of the cowboy

They may look tough, but every cowboy has a romantic heart, as the Cowboy Poetry Gathering in Elko, Nevada, goes to showWe are in a brightly lit school gymnasium, it's the middle of the afternoon and outside the wind is howling across Elko, Nevada. The odds against us being offered a transcendent musical experience seem long, and grow longer when the bass player mounts the stage. He's wearing a beret and toting a five-string bass, thereby igniting two of my most deeply held – though doubtless...

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